Letter from Eritrea

Elsewhere journal photo .jpg

By Alex Walker:

I pass under the white awnings of the coffee shop, grateful my walk has come to an end. The air in Asmara is thin – this small capital sits on a plateau 7600 ft above sea level – I am out of breath and in need of a coffee. Fortunately for me, Africa’s only ex-Italian colony still serves delicious macchiatos, made with the strong, dry Arabica beans of neighbouring Ethiopia. The letters of the sign outside are in the style usually seen on the side of Vespa motorbikes. 

It is busy, but an undaunted waitress shows me to a spare chair on a table with some other customers. I sit down to read and regain my breath, but struggle to focus amidst the muted scream of frothing milk and the buzz of conversations in Tigrinya. As people come and go, a smartly dressed man sits down opposite me. Back straight, he sips meticulously at an espresso. I can tell he is watching me, perhaps surprised by the sight of a westerner in a state that guards its own isolation. 

“Is your book factual?” he eventually asks.  

I tell him it’s about Eritrea and questions follow: what does this author say? what sources do they use? is it well referenced? 

He tells me he had been a history teacher. He does not seem angry, but concerned. I’ll tell you something about Eritrea, he says. 

“In the 1930s Eritrea and South Africa were the most developed nations in Africa. They called this city ‘Piccola Roma’. Do you know what that means? Little Rome.”

For the Italian colonists Asmara seems to have presented less an opportunity to create a miniature Rome than a modernist reimagining of it. The wide road that forms the artery of Asmara is lined with giant palms disproportionate to the number of people that walk beneath them. Walking along it you will pass four grand cinemas and come eventually to the famous ‘Fiat Tagliero’ building – a now-disused petrol station in the stylised shape of a majestic plane. It is said to be one of the finest examples of Italian futurism in the world. 

Asmara is quiet now – many people leave, if they can, and the country is undoubtedly poor. The subtext of my companion’s comment is clear. It was the British who treated Eritrea as the spoils of war when they defeated the Italians in 1941: dismantling factories, removing parts of the railway line, demolishing a naval base, and so on. There is no vitriol in his comment, only a desire to be clear. He tells me how much fun he had with British teachers in the 90s – a brief period of peace and optimism sandwiched between the protracted struggle for liberation and the brutal border war that followed.   

How old do you think I am? My new friend asks with a knowing smile. I guess early 40s. 

I am wrong, he is 55 – “but I look young, I have fought in two wars – it keeps you fit,” he laughs. 

***

Alex Walker recently finished a masters at The LSE in Political Theory. Before that he studied at the University of Oxford, where he wrote for various student publications. He currently lives in London and is interested in deliberative democracy and citizen participation.  

Alex on twitter

PEN & Paper Aeroplanes: Sara Upstone for Dawit Isaak

Sara - image.jpg

PEN & Paper Aeroplanes: Over the next two weeks we are handing over the Elsewhere blog to a series of literary tributes from UK-based writers in solidarity with writers at risk around the World who are supported by English PEN. As they are added, all the tributes will be collected together here. Today is the turn of Sara Upstone for Dawit Isaak:

Dawit Isaak was born in Eritrea in 1964. He was granted Swedish citizenship in 1992. In 2001, having returned to Eritrea, he was arrested and imprisoned without trial for supposed anti-government activity involving his work as a journalist for the country’s first independent newspaper, of which he was a part owner. There has been no sighting of Isaak since 2005. #FreeDawit

Empathy

From the Greek, Empátheia
From the Greek, en- páthos.
In feeling.
In.

I am trying to step in. Not much, you say. Not angry. Or representative. Not of any real use, perhaps. 

But still. 

Two years old. Wheezing sea-sick in isolation room, porthole window in antiseptic white door. Three. A stranger in my unconsoling father’s house. Eight. A bathroom door, rusted metal lazy in a lock just high enough to reach. 

Somewhere else, a twenty-three year old man has all the doors unlocked, an arrivant from a furnace to Sweden’s western coast chill. Sadness but with a heart-held, already-known, future. Marry. Raise children. Write words. Perhaps. Not here, but in that first, difficult love. 

It is a name with the poetry of a fantasy. Eritrea. 

Eighteen. The girl along the corridor is in love with university halls – they remind her, she tells me, of her boarding school. In the night, I forget where I am. Pack my belongings into the back of the car. Mollusc-spiralled on the backseat, shivering. Going home.

The young man, too, is home. In the place with the fantasy name he makes already-known futures real. Swims on the exhilaration of promises – independence, democracy, free-speech.

He is full of hope. He has called his first born daughter Betlehem. 

Twenty-two. Dissertation. Keywords: postcolonial, politics, space. Diversion in the project to Rubin Hurricane Carter, African American boxer falsely imprisoned for twenty years on charges of murder. Carter refuses to be freed from his cell; he wakes only when the other prisoners are asleep, exercises only at night. 

My style needs correction. My ideas are too political. They award me the thesis. 

The young man, too, is fulfilled. Perhaps. He has a little money. Buys pages of his own. Loves cheese. And coffee. He has a tendency to oversleep. 

They come for him on a Sunday, not in the newspaper offices but in his home.  

Twenty-six. I investigate escape ladders. Plan night-time routes along flat roofs. Debate the relative merits of ropes fashioned from sheets and mattresses thrown from windows. Decline invitations to travel by plane, decline anything where the aisle is unavailable. Accept employment where I can leave the room. Speak too fast, always, in case a door is about to close. 

In Eritrea two days pass quicker than the last 3000. The young man – he is still young –  smiles. Perhaps. He stretches and remembers how limbs move; visits the doctor and watches bruises transfigure purple to yellow. Kisses his children with plum-soft lips. Inhales just long enough for the heartbeat to return to normal before the handcuffs are re-secured. 

His wife tells the newspapers that this is a family matter. 

Thirty-two. My pregnant body is inside out; I am waiting nine months to be delivered. In the MRI scanner I forget not to open my eyes and for a second – an unalloyed heartbeat – am buried alive. 

For his fourth-seventh birthday, the man is given the gift of the rumour of his death. It is a premature arrival.

Perhaps.

Thirty-seven. My new lover sleeps like Gulliver. I crouch downstairs, in a small sliver of light, invocating camomile-conjured disappearing spells. I know the meaning of imprisonment. 

Hume broke his own rules when he said we can imagine a missing shade of blue. 

In Gothenburg, a replica cell is created. Visitors come. They sit with the absent man, respectfully. They are affected. 

With the surety of resurrection, it is impossible to experience death. 

Thirty-eight. I am with love. John gives us the house with the sheep for the music festival. We perform our separation from the world, wallow in isolation. Revel in the stripping of time. Bemoan lack of phone signal whilst surfing Facebook from the stairway. It is so good, someone declares, to get away from everything. 

The man is perhaps no longer young. He has been in his cell for more than 6000 days. 

Or, if you prefer, 518,400,000 seconds.

Or, if you prefer, the time it takes for a man’s children to reach adulthood.

What is your preference?

In the house surrounded by sheep the children bluster us to the first landing, to a small metal hook in the wooden floor. Incessant clamour demands we lift the lid – show us the priest’s hole, they squeal. We try to give them a lesson: mutter vaguely about papists, queens, and dying for one’s beliefs. They roll their eyes. Reach for the light switch. Clamber down the ladder, squeezing into the hole. My own daughter refuses, declines coaxing, peers silently over the edge. A den of detritus, midnight feasts littering the floor. The walls are covered in markings, initials carved, the audacity of marker pens. You can write here what you like. If John catches you then he will charge you more to remove the offending mark. Your parents will pay if you get caught. 

Concert day and the house is full. An old English man, white haired and pale faced, climbs the stairs. He sees the children curling into the floor, disappearing. He has never been to the house, he tells us, not before today. It is a fine building, and he wishes he had come earlier. But he has heard all about the priest’s hole, he says, and glances at my daughter. He wouldn’t go down there; you’re right, he says, to stay up here. Sometimes people do things you can’t even imagine, he says. There is a cruelty in people you don’t expect. His grandson came here once, some years past, with a group of friends. When he climbed into the hole, he tells us, the other boys shut the lid and stood on it. 

Weight on wood. 

What is the opposite of empathy? 

I try not to imagine it. I must imagine it. 

I try to imagine it.

At it is then I hear the call, quiet but clear, the door opening, the ladder climbed, the face – this face both old and young – looking outwards, emerging amidst a dancing mist of words. 

***

dawit isaak.jpg

About Dawit Isaak: Dawit is an Eritrean-Swedish journalist who was arrested as part of the September 2001 crackdown on Eritrea’s independent press, and arrested along with other print journalists who have since been held incommunicado. Although alleged to be ‘traitors’, not one of them has been charged or tried.

About Sara Upstone: Sara is Professor of Contemporary Literature and Head of School of Arts, Culture and Communication at Kingston University, London. She is the author of three monographs, most recently Rethinking Race and Identity in Contemporary British Fiction (Routledge, 2017), but her real pleasure is creative work that explores the intersection of literary forms and interdisciplinary practice. She is a regular contributor to the online journal Versopolis, and editor of Literary London Journal